Skeptical No More . . .

Yes, it's another news article link.

(But this one is much shorter!)

I knew it was good for you.

I just wish they had the results of Traditional Chinese Medicine massage (which would emphatically not be in the "light massage" category.)

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/21/health/research/21regimens.html

Attack of the Rhino (my experience with Chinese Massage)

There is a cloud of suspicion that swirls around Chinese massage, or rather "massage" in China. Especially for the international business traveler, who no doubt has been propositioned at one time or another in a shady hotel, or a five star one, with the awkward lure of awkwardly pronounced "massageandsex," by not the procurer of the services, but an underling of the operation. There is also the confusing middle of the night phone call in hotels of all calibers, where the offer for a "massage" sounds more like "message." And so, the confused and jet-lagged recipient says, "Message?" and soon gets a rap on the door. There has been a movement to clean up these operations, but the oldest profession in the world is alive and well in China.

While that kind of "massage" is the stuff of lore of business traveler's lounges from Beijing to Boston, from Shanghai to San Fransisco, it is not the only kind of massage in China. Nor is it most famous.

Traditional Chinese massage, an extension of TCM (traditional Chinese medicine), divides the body into meridians, pressure points, and seeks to treat the problem not just the symptoms (alleviation of the just the symptoms is their main criticism of Western medicine.) Now, I am no expert on this. And I'm not a big fan of the acupressure massage. We do the foot massage thing, and we have done Chinese massage that left me feeling like I've been rolled over by a steam roller. Literally disoriented. And bruised. How a 98 pound countryside girl, trained in traditional massage techniques can lay me low like I've a been a prisoner of war is amazing. And not something I've signed up to go back for. (Mr Johnson on the other hand is becoming something of a "China Hand" and subscribes to green tea and firm massages!)

But I haven't sworn off Chinese massage entirely. There is a great sense of business acumen in this country. And they have come to realize that if the foreigners can't hack a firm bed, they probably don't like a firm massage so well either. About once a month I head to a lovely Chinese spa that is clean and well staffed. They mix traditional Chinese acupressure with a more European style oil massage. There are various degrees of pressure, and you can request any level. If V is on hand I request her. She has the strength of a man, and the discretion and perception that comes with experience. She picks up on subtleties her younger colleagues sometimes miss. This woman, when I had an ear infection so profound antibiotics couldn't seem to relieve it fast enough, employed a number of techniques on my ears and around my jaw that opened my plugged ear so I could hear... after weeks of muffled din. I trust her.

The ear thing is often a subject of conversation in expat circles. In Western society when would we ever feel comfortable touching someone else's ear? (Save that goofy stage of second grade boys who like to give "Wet Willie's"). When you get your hair cut and washed here, there is often that moment when the stylist slips their fingers in your ears. It's part scrub, part massage, and strangely I don't mind it. I had a British friend who it really bothered, but as she practically pointed out, once it's done its a little late to point out you don't like it! Chinese culture is much more casual about ear touch. There are guys who set up on the street to clean your ears for a fee. Some hotels offer a ear spoon (a tiny metal scoop to clean the inside of your ear) as part of their toiletries kit.

Mr. Johnson finds the experience @ my spa a little tame. (The spa has a policy of women or couples only, and I don't mind going solo!) About once a month I custom order a one-hour session for my back, shoulder, arms, and head (which includes ears and face). The spa looks out over the Yellow Sea, and on a spring or fall day it's lovely to crank the window open and feel the ocean breeze spill into the room.

So yesterday, V pointed out to me tight spot under my shoulder blade (the exact reason I had come in.) Should I try blah blah she asked? I didn't know what that was, and after I ruled out that it was cupping, I said go for it. She left the room and came back with something that felt like the long end of a plastic rat tailed comb. With generous amounts of oil, she worked the tool around my neck, shoulder blades and down my spine. It felt like scraping. But lubricated scraping. She put the tool away, finished the massage and I got dressed.

Back downstairs I asked for some specifics. It's xi niu jiao, she told me in Mandarin. I wasn't familiar with this, and looked it up in my translator. Certainly it wasn't really what she was suggesting: Rhinoceros horn. Don't shower for at least four hours and drink lots of water, she added. (I suddenly felt like I was at a doctor's office, not at a casual Monday afternoon massage appointment.)

I felt sick about the possibility it could be rhino horn. I went home and did a quick google search. The comb that she used on my back was most likely made of either sheep or ox horn. Rhino horn, is a must sought after ingredient in TCM, and as a result has lead to the drastically decreased numbers of the world's rhinos (going the way of other animals like the majestic Amur tiger, sought for its bones; black bears for their bile, and musk deer for their musk glands all of which are equally threatened by TCM).

When I came home. I told the girls I had been attacked by a rhino. Then curious, I asked if there were any marks. One gasp from E., and I realize there probably were. After several failed attempts, and with the aid of the bathroom mirror, I took these shots myself... over my head and backwards. (Mr. Johnson couldn't stomach looking at the marks, let alone documenting them... he said it made him feel the way he felt when he watched the process when one of our baby's needed an IV.)

Maybe next time no rhino horn, or sheep horn, or ox horn. Just a plain old massage with some sea breeze.